Frequently Asked Questions

Our snow removal contracts run from October 15th through May 15th. To maintain the highest level of service, we limit the number of clients we take on each season. We recommend reaching out early to secure your spot and ensure full coverage for the winter.

Pricing is based on the size and complexity of your driveway. A standard driveway, typically two cars wide by two cars deep, falls under our base rate, which covers many homes. Factors such as larger size, limited snow storage, steep slopes, difficult layouts, wind exposure, roof snow runoff, and additional turnarounds can increase the overall cost.

The minimum price is based on our operating expenses, which include labor, fuel, parts, lubricants, insurance, replacement equipment, etc.

We plow residential customers when approximately 2” to 3″of snow has accumulated. Plowing continues until each customer has received at least one plow during a 24 hour period. 

Yes, NH SNOW PROS LLC has the right equipment, experience, and expertise to plow private roads

Yes, we accept Credit Cards- Visa, Mastercard, Discover, Amex, and Apple Pay

Snow removal can be much more dangerous than most people realize. Heavy or wet snow can weigh hundreds of pounds over the length of a driveway or walkway, putting significant strain on your muscles and heart. Slips, falls, and back injuries are common, and those over 55 are especially at risk for heart-related incidents. Even seemingly simple tasks like pushing a snow blower or sanding a driveway can lead to serious accidents in winter conditions.

At NH Dirt & Snow Pros in Meredith, NH, we handle all snow and ice management safely and efficiently. Protect yourself and your property—let the professionals get the job done right.

Regular landscape maintenance usually includes weekly lawn mowing, trimming around edges and obstacles, blowing off walkways and driveways, and if the lawn doesn't require lawn mowing that week we would do bed weeding and basic property cleanup.  Most other Landscaping maintenance tasks are scheduled and performed once or twice a season, such as shrub trimming, mulch installation, fertilization, and seasonal spring/fall cleanups. The key is that customers should always ask for a clear written scope so they know exactly what is and is not included.

For most actively growing lawns, weekly mowing gives the best appearance and is healthier for the turf. Biweekly mowing can work during slower growth periods, but if the grass gets too tall between visits, cutting it back too much at once can stress the lawn. A good rule is to avoid removing more than one-third of the grass blade in a single mowing.  

Most of the time, clippings can be left on the lawn as long as the grass is being mowed properly and not cut excessively long. Small clippings break down quickly, return nutrients to the soil, and do not normally cause thatch. Clippings should only be collected when they are heavy, clumped, or would leave the lawn looking messy. 

Most lawns do better with deep, infrequent watering instead of shallow daily watering. A common target is about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall, though this varies with soil, sun exposure, and weather. Deep watering encourages stronger root growth, while frequent light watering can lead to weaker, shallow roots. 

They solve different problems. Aeration helps relieve soil compaction and improves the movement of air, water, and nutrients into the root zone. Dethatching is only needed when there is too much thatch buildup at the surface. Many lawns benefit from aeration, but not every lawn needs dethatching. 

That depends on the shrub. Many shrubs are best pruned in late winter or early spring, but spring-blooming shrubs should usually be pruned after they finish flowering so you do not remove the next season’s flower buds. Good pruning timing depends on whether the shrub blooms on old wood or new wood. 

For most cool-season lawns, the best time is late summer to early fall. That timing gives seed a better chance to establish while temperatures are moderate and weed pressure is often lower than in spring. Fall is generally the strongest window for thickening up thin lawns and improving long-term turf density 

Hardscape is the built, structural non-living part of the yard: patios, walkways, driveways, retaining walls, stairs, fire pits, stone borders, and similar features. 

Usually, the hardscape should be planned and installed first, because it establishes grades, traffic patterns, drainage, and finished elevations. Then the softscape can be installed around it without getting damaged or needing to be redone. This is especially important for patios, walls, and walkways near the home where drainage and slope matter.  

The base does most of the structural work. Even attractive pavers can settle, spread, or heave if the base is undersized or poorly compacted. Industry guidance notes that base thickness depends on soil strength, drainage, climate, and traffic loads, which is why “what goes underneath” often matters more than the paver style itself.  

A retaining wall is usually needed when the grade change is too steep to manage safely or attractively with a simple slope. Walls help create usable space, hold back soil, and control grade transitions. Once soil pressure and water are involved, the design becomes more technical than a simple decorative feature. 

Softscape is the living part of the landscape: trees, shrubs, flowers, lawn, groundcovers, mulch, and soil-based planting areas. It is what gives the yard color, texture, seasonal change, habitat value and warmth. 

Start with site conditions, not just looks. Extension guidance stresses “right plant, right place,” meaning plant selection should match sun, shade, soil, drainage, mature size, climate, and maintenance expectations. Choosing plants first because they look good in the nursery is one of the most common ways homeowners end up with struggling landscapes.  

Native plants can be a strong choice when they fit the site and the homeowner’s goals. UNH Extension highlights native shrubs, trees, and flowering plants for wildlife and pollinator value, and native species can reduce some long-term maintenance when properly matched to site conditions. They are not automatically maintenance-free, but they are often a smart part of a durable planting plan.  

Far enough that their mature height and width will fit the space. Extension guidance emphasizes planning for full-grown size so plants do not crowd structures, spill over walkways, or require constant pruning. Homeowners often underestimate mature size and then end up with foundation crowding or overgrown entrances.  

Often, yes. The exact permits depend on the job. In New Hampshire, excavation near public waters, wetlands, banks, or protected shoreland can trigger DES permitting, septic-related excavation can require septic approvals, and a driveway tying into a state-maintained highway needs an NHDOT driveway permit. On top of that, towns may have their own local permit or inspection requirements for driveway, grading, right-of-way, or site work.  

Yes. In New Hampshire, homeowners and contractors should notify Dig Safe before digging so underground utility owners can mark their lines. Dig Safe’s system says that if you are digging within 18 inches of a marked underground utility, the line must be safely exposed by hand digging or vacuum excavation, and mechanized equipment in that 18-inch tolerance zone is prohibited by law. Tickets in New Hampshire expire after 30 days.  

Excavation cost depends heavily on access, soil type, ledge, groundwater, slope, trucking distance, disposal needs, imported material, and whether drainage or permits are involved. A straightforward dig in sandy or loamy soil costs far less than a site with rock, wet ground, tight access, or material that has to be hauled off and replaced. New Hampshire conditions can vary sharply from one property to the next, especially in hilly and rocky areas. Guidance on stormwater and terrain disturbance also shows that drainage and site conditions are major design and cost drivers. 

That is one of the most common excavation concerns in New Hampshire. If ledge or large rock is found, the job may need hammering, splitting, redesign, or elevation changes. If soft or wet soils show up, the contractor may need to overexcavate and rebuild with suitable structural fill. These conditions usually increase labor, machine time, trucking, and material costs. NH stormwater and terrain guidance emphasizes understanding soils and infiltration before choosing solutions, because soil behavior drives what will actually work. 

Sometimes yes, but only if the real water source and flow path are identified first. UNH and NH DES guidance on stormwater stresses looking at where the water comes from, where it ends up, soil type, and whether the soil can infiltrate water. In many cases the solution is not just “dig a trench,” but a combination of grading, swales, drainage pipe, catch basins, dry wells, or other stormwater measures.  

Yes. In New Hampshire, work in or near wetlands, banks, surface waters, and protected shoreland is heavily regulated. DES states that excavation, fill, dredge, removal, and construction in those areas may require permits. Proposed projects within protected shoreland typically require a shoreland permit, and projects within the bank of a waterbody may also require wetlands review.